success

Yesterday, I caught my first wave! And second, and third, and fourth. It was amazing. I paddled into them, dropped down, and stood! It was all kind of a blur. One, exotic, pre-historic, raw kind of blur. hahaha! I did rub my stomach raw on the board wax. & acquire a few dings and bruises : ( completely worth it though! It was suuuuuuuuch a beautiful day. I wish words could describe it. I knew what I was doing. I knew what to do. So I did it. And doing it was a blast. hahaha, I stopped getting beat up by the waves, and put my game face on. And the 'game face' is actually fun! Cause things get done, and fun is had. The water was clear. Clear. And the waves were about waist-high. The water was extra salty & cool. I over-salt everything, so the ocean & I get along great! Sometimes, I'll just walk straight to the shore, & dip my fingers in for a taste. I didn't wear a wetsuit. Bikini top & boardshorts. : ) I could just end the post there. hahaha, that has me satisfied enough in itself. And that was done cause Brandon supposedly wasn't going to wear one. ...He didn't even go. Lame-o suplame-o. hahah, not really, it was perfect. Playing, playing. Playing! I was playing in the ocean! hahahahahahahahahaha. No fear. My Lord is the one who churns up the sea. Leaving me free to romp! My stand was tinged with a hint of self-consciousness..which I had not been expecting. Suddenly I was facing & aware of the beach (covered with vacationers). Front & center. Like an audience & a stage. Need I mention, the world's biggest stage? I succeeded & everyone saw it. : ) I guess that's the way God works. When He does something miraculous, it's for the world to see & acknowledge His splendor. Righteous. BAck to the victory at hand..! Standing. Standing. Playful, wet, drippy, bright sun, cool water, my shorts. Did I mention my shorts? hahaha why are they so baller? hahahhaha AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAH