i'm far too weak to make a go of what happened today. so i'll just say what i need to say. Jesus Christ my Lord put someone in my path that i can't even describe how perfect he is for what i needed. the other night i went with my mom to the naval hospital to hang out with the labor & delivery nurses/check things out for her 12 hour night shift. i met a couple marines. chad being one of them. we talked about surfing cause he's a surfer. he was talking about his surf crew back home (georgia), including some pro...i don't follow these things...it's all about the personal journey for me. the challenge. he was talkin about the surf. he was saying everything i feel about surfing. "it's all about what goes on inside. you don't have to prove anything to anyone. if anyone judges surfing, man...do you surf? ok then. and if you're a true surfer, you're a weatherman too. you watch the waves. it's about gettin out there and watching people. checking out their style, and learning. once you catch that wave, you just feel so good inside. like maaaaaaaaan i'm surfin the line, i'm surfin the line!! did you see that?! i was goin straight down the line! hah, it's about lettin go of all fear." that struck something in me. i know that's why i'm doing this. especially because i made another prayer list to stick to for a few months & see what happens. and at the top of the list, "take away my fear." when chad was talking my heart leapt. he said exactly what i'd been feeling. this wasn't some blimp with a hobby. he loves it. he feels it.
so there's all the background information. so today. went to the bank-youknowwhy,- got gas, and set out toward emerald isle. tunes bumpn, board in the back (and front, and everywhere in between : ), in the car of my dreams. preparing to do what i've always wanted. i stepped out of my body for a second on the way there to take inventory. jeep, subwoof, board, palm trees, water, me, and God. alone at last. it was far too much like the life i want to live. hahahaha : D succcckkkkkaaaa punch (to the man...the system). then i re-entered my body to keep livin it, along with the feelings & emotions that i didn't / couldn't have pictured before. unknown. known that it's unknown. ...that's the only thing that's known. : ) so i entered my favorite surf shop, bert's, and got some booties. my boi, brandon the surf n00b, & manager apparently...don't ask i guess...(hah, no i will draw attention to it, it's the perfect surf shop for me, cause i dunno whas up & there's no judgement). anyway. brandon says to come back & let him know how it goes. cody's the girl at the register. she commented on the shoes in the bootie box (mine...since i was wearing the booties -why squeeze the impossible things on twice?) and she says..those are interesting lookin booties. hahah...i pause. i'm like, ugh (i point to the ground) i've got 'em on. lol, i just like bert's. so i drive across the road to the public access beach parking lot. naturally, it's completely empty. the beaches are deserted. it'sso epic. i strip down, suit up, and wax on. as i'm waxing, a car drives by. wait no. that was the 2nd car that drove by. the first one was the police. i was like ahhh shoot, it would be illegal, it's too perfect. me surfing, the only person on the beach. he passed. drove right past me. hahahaha niiiiiiIIIICe. ok, so 2nd drive by, says out the window, 'heeeyyy are you goin out??' i look up without recognizing the guy, assuming it's brandon from bert's, say yeeea.. thEN i realize it's chad! my night-shift marine buddy. what. are. the. odds? they are slim to none. God crossed our paths. he goes over to the stars. climbs up the post to get a better view of the waves. i finish waxing & meet him at the stairs down to the shore. he says a few things about the set-up & says he might have to go grab his 'fish' since i'm out here. : ) yes please, do. he says what are you waitin for? go get it! with a smile i'm on my way. i do the darn thing. i battle & mental battle the ocean for...as long as i can take/decide i'd better head back, since the drift took me a half mile down the way. during that time i got up just a tad, because the waves didn't have enough power to take me anywhere. yea i was close to the shore. goin in & workin my pop-up right after they'd break. then by the time i walk back to where i'd started, chad's back on his post. hollers at me. i sit down in the sand. he walks out to me and says it looks better out at bogue inlet pier. i said can i follow you? yea! so we're on our way to the cars. as we part, he tells me to take my time, he know's i'm cold. i'm kind of relieved he knows how i feel & appreciate the breathing room he gives me. however, i get to the car & quickly realize that my frozen fingers really do need extra time. i have to turn the key with two hands. nerves & small muscles don't really work. i just use my left hand to jam it the direction i know it's supposed to go.
now we're at the pier. he gives me more 'sex'wax & while i wax on, he hides my keys with his, under his car. as we walk to the water he says i shouldn't go alone if i can help it. 'there's sharks out there, did you know that? i saw a 5 foot spinner last time i was out, did a 360 right out of the barrel. ...just don't think about it.'
a guy joins chad under the pier. this one has a hoodie for his wetsuit. lucky duck. chad hollers at me, 'you ready?' as i'm lieing in the sand trying to soak up some sun for warmth. i'm still wet(suited) from before. yea, so we get in. chad waves for me to come out to where they are headed....the deep blue, beyond all the baby waves. uuuughhh. maybe he's not aware of the severity of my condition. i can't surf. hahahaha. i say 'they're so big!' but i obey. i fight the waves toward the guys. then. whoa. we're beyond the breaking point. and we're paddling. paddling. paddling. to keep from drifting toward (breakpoint) shore. i say, 'am i gonna hit the pier?' chad says, not if you paddle that way! so now i'm paddling away from the pier legs. he yells, "you're doing exactly what i want you to do! gettin familiar with the water, paddling, and practicing not running into people. you're doin great!" later he says, know your limits, if you're tired paddle in! i take him right up on that. i'm also frigid. i pull my knees to my chest on shore. i'm shaking. and i can't stop. this is as cold as i've ever (consecutively) been. i.e. for as long. i practice my pop-up on shore now that i'm going to have to do it or get pummled. i paddle out past break-point again. it's so windy & impossible. no one is catching any waves. chad says, 'they're not breaking on the outside and the inside's just dumpin!' he was absolutely right. the inside wave i'd tried just landed on me instead of propelling me forward. i realize even the experienced riders can't catch anything, this isn't the day. so i head in. chad takes my number so we can ride together.
he's so perfect for the job. he doesn't need me to say anything. he has a girlfriend (he was on the phone with that night at the hospital). he kept forgetting my name & me his. hah. because they don't really matter. we're here for each other for one thing. i get him amped to go out (he hadn't been out in months) & he coaches me through it. i really don't have to worry about my personality or his or dynamics or anything. we're just livin. i don't know how to surf & have a passion for learning. he does know how to surf and has a passion for catching a wave.
okay. now to where i am. you can't imagine. you do what you gotta do when you're that cold. stripping down on a side road after we'd said our goodbyes. ope, my bikini top came untied under my suit. noooot much i can do about that when my fingers are worthless stumps on the ends of my (good-for-nothin-but-paddling-and-balancing-and-being-cold) hands. hahaha dressing when you're frozen is hard. that's that. i wanted to just stay in my wetsuit in the car but decided i should get out asap. i took a bath at home. and drank hot cocoa. and took a big, deep, ocean-air-and-stress-release breath as i was finally horizontal, and safe, and warm.
looks like the best way to de-brief was just to go through it all. now that leaves more room for the water and sand in my head. : ) i was at the refrigerator, leaning over to see what we got, and water came running out of my nose. hahahahahahh. woooooooow. it's official. i got worked. and you can't imagine how mental this thing is. it's ALL about conquering fear. : ) oooooooh Jesus. a couple times out in the water, i went over psalm 27:1 the LORD is my light and my salvation, whom shall i fear? the LORD is the refuge of my life, of whom shall i be afraid.'